Need a little help on car 169
I have car 169 here which is also for sale as I have seen you guys have already posted, anyways car had been sitting for some 20 years, the shocks were all rebuilt, new timing belt, fuel pumps, etc anyways I replaced all the master cylinders, the problem I am having is finding where to bleed the clutch? Any help would be greatly appreciated, also if you have any questions or are possibly interested in the car please ask.
Hi Mike,
There is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. To access the slave cylinder remove the left seat then peel back the carpet on the left side of the transmission tunnel. Beneath the carpet there is an access panel on the bulkhead that you can remove by undoing six screws.
The process is described also in the owners manual as part of the tasks to be performed when replacing the clutch master cylinder (Section 07 Page 29).
If you don't have the owner's manual you can download a pdf version here:
http://www.rs200.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=270&t=443
Hope this helps.
There is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. To access the slave cylinder remove the left seat then peel back the carpet on the left side of the transmission tunnel. Beneath the carpet there is an access panel on the bulkhead that you can remove by undoing six screws.
The process is described also in the owners manual as part of the tasks to be performed when replacing the clutch master cylinder (Section 07 Page 29).
If you don't have the owner's manual you can download a pdf version here:
http://www.rs200.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=270&t=443
Hope this helps.
Also has anyone replaced the brake masters.. I'm having trouble adjusting them so the bias works properly it seems the front brakes are getting very little throw and due to space issues under the dash it's hard to see, I'm used to Tilton pedal boxes and these seem much different haha.
Hi MIke,
The balance is done via a so-called brake balance bar. This is located in the pedal box inside the driver's footwell close to the pedal pivots. The procedure says that before taking it apart it should be accurately measured so that when fitting it back together it can be fitted with the exact calibrated measurements. If you replaced the master cylinders you most likely have had to take this off so my guess is that it was not fitted back at the exact same position.
You can find details in the manual, section 07 - page 74.
The balance is done via a so-called brake balance bar. This is located in the pedal box inside the driver's footwell close to the pedal pivots. The procedure says that before taking it apart it should be accurately measured so that when fitting it back together it can be fitted with the exact calibrated measurements. If you replaced the master cylinders you most likely have had to take this off so my guess is that it was not fitted back at the exact same position.
You can find details in the manual, section 07 - page 74.
Hi Mike
I had to replace all 3 master cylinders last year and the key was to measure everything first on the old cylinders, if you measure the rod length to the locknut pushrod yoke end then it should all go back to the same settings, from my own experience you can still adjust the balance from inside the car, but you need to be a bit of a contortionist , if you slide in on back and look upwards under the the pedalbox you can undo the locknuts on the rods and then with a pair of thin nose pliers you can turn the rods to adjust either way.
Good luck
Claudio
I had to replace all 3 master cylinders last year and the key was to measure everything first on the old cylinders, if you measure the rod length to the locknut pushrod yoke end then it should all go back to the same settings, from my own experience you can still adjust the balance from inside the car, but you need to be a bit of a contortionist
, if you slide in on back and look upwards under the the pedalbox you can undo the locknuts on the rods and then with a pair of thin nose pliers you can turn the rods to adjust either way.Good luck
Claudio
Yes I have noticed all this as I replaced them all, since we have a race shop fortunately I had the AP racing masters laying around. Unfortunately I didn't measure them because basically I was an idiot haha. Any idea what the measurements should be? Also I removed the slave and found it to be bad... any ideas what I car I can use a slave off of?
Thanks for the help but this whole slave issue is killing me, the slave is actually a master off something I believe, the RS200'S masters have the same 2 bolt flange I have an extra AP Racing master if all else fails I'm going to try to shim it and use that.
If all else fails, i think i am right in saying that AP do repair/service kits for master cylinders, assuming its an AP unit and its servicable, have you tried stripping it down.
Have you had any luck with the car, rather surprised no one in America is interested, i assume there is a number of people in the UK that would be very keen if it wasnt for the dam import duties/vat, always get shafted by the government here just like the petrol prices over here
Have you had any luck with the car, rather surprised no one in America is interested, i assume there is a number of people in the UK that would be very keen if it wasnt for the dam import duties/vat, always get shafted by the government here just like the petrol prices over here